The History of Roger Dubuis: Avant-Garde Horology at Its Finest

Founded on the fusion of traditional Swiss watchmaking and bold contemporary design, Roger Dubuis has carved a distinctive niche in the world of haute horlogerie. Though a relatively young brand, it has rapidly risen to prominence through innovation, technical mastery, and an unrelenting pursuit of excellence.

Origins: From Master Watchmaker to Maison

The story begins with Roger Dubuis, a master watchmaker who spent decades honing his craft at prestigious houses, most notably at Patek Philippe, where he specialized in complications. In 1995, after gaining a reputation for precision and innovation, Dubuis partnered with designer Carlos Dias to launch his eponymous brand in Geneva.

From the outset, the brand focused on high complications and unique styling. It aimed to push boundaries—both aesthetically and mechanically—creating watches that would stand apart in the often-conservative world of luxury timepieces.

A luxurious Roger Dubuis watch featuring a bold skeleton dial and intricate mechanical details, highlighted by a robust blue strap and polished silver case.

Early Milestones: Technical Excellence

Within just a few years, Roger Dubuis had developed and produced in-house movements, a rarity for such a young brand. In 1999, the company inaugurated a new manufacture in Meyrin, Switzerland, allowing it to oversee the entire watchmaking process under one roof.

A key achievement was the brand’s commitment to earning the Poinçon de Genève (Geneva Seal), a prestigious hallmark of quality and craftsmanship. Many of its timepieces carry this certification, underscoring its dedication to excellence.

Iconic Collections

Roger Dubuis is known for several standout collections, including:

• Excalibur: Launched in the early 2000s, the Excalibur collection quickly became a flagship, characterized by its bold cases, skeletonized movements, and the iconic triple lugs. It merges gothic inspiration with futuristic execution.

• Velvet: Aimed at women, this collection offers the same technical sophistication in a more elegant, refined form.

• La Monégasque: A tribute to Monte Carlo and casino glamour, this line blends classic design cues with modern flair.

A New Chapter: Richemont Acquisition

In 2008, the Richemont Group acquired a majority stake in Roger Dubuis, allowing the brand to access more resources and expand globally while retaining its identity and creative freedom. Under Richemont, Roger Dubuis leaned even further into its bold design ethos and high-end complications.

Innovation Meets Artistry

Roger Dubuis is particularly known for its skeletonized tourbillons, double flying tourbillons, and minute repeaters, often housed in unconventional materials like carbon, titanium, and ceramic. Collaborations with brands like Pirelli and Lamborghini Squadra Corse have brought motorsport performance and aesthetics into the horological realm.

Its watches are not for the faint of heart—they are large, daring, and designed to make a statement. Yet they are backed by the kind of watchmaking credibility that few avant-garde brands can claim.

Legacy and Vision

Although Roger Dubuis himself retired in the early 2000s (he passed away in 2017), his spirit continues to influence the brand. Today, Roger Dubuis stands at the crossroads of tradition and innovation, continually pushing the boundaries of what a luxury watch can be.

With its signature blend of mechanical virtuosity, architectural design, and uncompromising craftsmanship, Roger Dubuis remains a key player for collectors and enthusiasts who crave something exceptional—and unapologetically bold.